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Chiara Maria Sassu

 Chiara(柯雅)生于意大利的罗马,建筑学博士,热衷于追求当代艺术与时尚。毕业后,在Fendi从事店面设计师一职,而后与丈夫Giorgio进行环球旅行。现居住、工作于北京。追求生活品质的您,请关注她的博客:www.chiarascoffeetable.com 

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Neemic, 走绿色环保的时尚路线

2014-04-10 09:56:21

这是北京中心的一条美丽的胡同,Neemic的企划工作室坐落在这里。在这里,我遇到了Hans Martin Galliker。那是今年冬天的一个难得的好天,阳光明媚,万里无云,这座城市偶尔才给予人们一次应得的礼物。

在Neemic总部这个兼具创意和可持续发展的生态系统里,我们坐下来,喝喝茶,聊聊天。Hans在瑞士度过了自己的童年,然后遵照家庭传统,当了一名农夫。长大后,他去了一家IT企业工作,并进修了商务沟通这门课程。从这以后他一直致力于理论联系实际来使农业往好的方向发展。他的梦想就是有一天农耕会变成世界经济的有价值不可或缺的一部分,用可持续发展和绿色环保的方式生产制造健康的农产品。并且他也着眼于改善世界上成千上万的农民们的生活状态。虽然他很清楚地明白他的理想太乌托邦,但是他知道如何开始:他现在正在开发一个工具来帮助农民伯伯们选择完美的可用的肥料,希望他们可以做出最好的选择,而且可以经济上受益。

虽然他现在很怀念读书的时光,他感觉生活正在一点点吞噬他,但是他依然原意投入更多的时间和精力在Neemic这个城市有机时尚品牌。2011年他和设计师Amihan Zemp在Beijing Fashion Collective(北京时尚集合)创立了这个品牌;Hans从以生活方式为主的当代纺织品工业入手来达成可持续发展这项任务。

北京时尚集合是时尚设计师,摄影师,博主和来自东西方的圈内艺术家融汇,分享资源、技术和机遇的一个组织。从组织创意活动到共同寻找可再生材料到提供在中国本土以及海外的艺术交流,一直到培育创意交流。它的基本目标就是建立一个设计中心——这是一个共享的工作场所,在这里人们可以共享设备,就像小酒馆那样汇集多姿多彩的文化、摄影角、使公平交易的产品更易被触及的裁缝工作室和为需求人群提供方便的可再生材料的展厅。北京时尚集合致力于引入绿色环保的全球生活方式理念:他们想过在屋顶建一个有机蔬菜园,一来可以教育其他人,二来可以为小酒馆提供本地生产的健康食材。

时尚处于这个大家庭的正中心,因为这种模式不仅仅很实际,而且是一个适合各种生命的艺术媒介。

Neemic是肩负3大使命来到这个地球的:创造杰出的时尚,使时尚产业能够可持续发展,桥接欧亚大陆。

目前,Neemic每年都有展示两季作品,现在有机材料已经占了他们作品的25%,目标是在接下来几年,这个比例要达到80%。需要重点提出的是无论何种纺织品,想要达到95%以上的有机材料的使用基本上是不可能的(想一想伸展部分,拉锁和纽扣);T-shirt还好,但是夹克就能难达到。他们认为这个世界的纺织品已经够多了——所以他们才谨慎地选择最好的最自然的材料,而这些材料都是从角料来的,他们同时回收二手衣物,努力从有资质的制作商那里拿到最新的纺织品。他们现在所选用的材料是不含除草剂,杀虫剂和转基因种子。他们的作品很多都使用接地气的色彩:奶色、米黄色、淡黄色。这不仅仅是风格的选择,这同时也是Hobson的选择,Neemic一直都试图远离化工染色。他们一直都在北京、上海、杭州寻找有机材料的供货商。不知疲倦地研究市面上的新品。现在Hans就在香港的InterStoff和环保材料制造商会面。他们经常需要从德国,美国瑞士进口这些材料,因为中国的这个市场的发展还远不及印度。

不过,Neemic不仅仅能做这些。他们的设计和风格绝对的漂亮并且有内涵。虽然这些年在高端市场我们才得以看到绿色环保的时尚产品,但是Neemic正在尝试把可持续发展的时尚前沿设计带到一个合理的价格区间。

在这里,所有的一切都是关乎最小限度的造型,接地气的色彩和穿着的舒适,并且相当的女性主义和精致的创造。你能从细节的处理感受到他们对此项事业的热爱。“丝质内层和有机棉和羊毛让(衣服)穿起来像蚕蛹一样舒服。”Neemic的官方网站说。“像蝴蝶一样,轻抚这个世界。生于丝中,把自己包裹在柔软的壳中”这是他们的信条。我完全赞同。

Neemic在社交中也很积极,同时他们也和当地的裁缝建立合作关系,这也是为和当地的NGO合作促进农村的移居者和其他具有绿色环保理念的北京设计师的公平交易做准备。Neemic追求的是长期合作伙伴。

我很高兴可以联系到Hans,他是一个很有灵感的追梦人,也是一个乐于思考的人,让世界变得更美好是一个巨大的挑战,他已经做好了准备。干得漂亮,Hans!

想了解更多时尚咨询,请关注我的博客http://www.chiarascoffeetable.com/

I met Hans Martin Galliker at Neemic's project studio, tucked in a beautiful hutong in the center of Beijing. It was one of those incredibly sunny and clear winter days that from time to time the city gives its people as a much deserved gift.

We sat down in the ecosystem of creativity and sustainability that is Neemic HQ and had a chat over a cup of tea. Hans grew up in Switzerland where he followed his family tradition and became a farmer. Later on, he worked in the IT industry, studied business communication and since 2009 he put his knowledge together and now he works to change the agricultural industry to the better. His dream is that farming will one day become a substantial, valued part of the world economy by producing healthy products in a socially sustainable and environmentally-friendly way. Also, he is looking at improving life conditions for the millions of workers involved in the agricultural system worldwide. And while he is perfectly aware that the project in his mind is a utopic vision, he has it very clear where to start: he is working on a very simple tool to help the farmers to choose the perfect and most available fertilizer to use. In this way he hopes that theycan do the best choice, and economically benefit from it.

Now he misses having time to read a book and to continue his education, and he feels like life is eating him up, but he is willing to invest more time and energy in his urban organic fashion brand Neemic, founded together with designer Amihan Zemp in 2011, and in the Beijing Fashion Collective; Hans approaches the sustainability mission through the textile industry, embedded in lifestyle-oriented contemporary culture.

Beijing Fashion Collective (北京时尚集合) is an organization designed for fashion designers, photographers, bloggers and surrounding artists from East and West to collaborate and share resources, skills and opportunities. From organizing creative events to sourcing together sustainable (e.g. organic or up-cycling) fabrics to offering art exchanges within and beyond China, all this to foster creative exchanges. The general idea is to create a Design Center - a shared workspace with shared facilities, like a bistro for versatile cultural gatherings, photo shooting corner, sewing studio to make fair-trade production more accessible, and sustainable fabric showroom to facilitate group purchase. Beijing Fashion Collective is actually introducing an environmentally-friendly lifestyle global vision: given that we are what we eat, they even thought about having a rooftop organic vegetable garden, for education and to supply the bistro with local and healthy products.

Fashion is at the epicenter of this enterprise because it is a mode that's not only practical, but a constant art medium that suites various lifestyles from all walks of life.

Neemic as a fashion brand was born with three main objectives: creating outstanding fashion, making the industry more environmentally sustainable and building bridges between Europe and Asia.

Currently, Neemic has two collections per year, and, while they already use organic fabrics for around 25% of their pieces, the goal is to get to more than 80% in the next few years. Note that everything more than 95% is for many kinds of textiles hardly possible (think of stretch parts, zippers, buttons); it would be rather easy for simple pieces like T-shirts but really hard for a functional winter jacket. They believe that the world has enough fabric already – this is why they carefully select the finest natural materials from leftovers of fashion industry, recycle used clothing, and strive to order new fabrics from certified organic producers only. The sources of the clothing's fiber they are currently using are free from herbicides, pesticides, or genetically modified seeds. Most of the pieces in their collections are in earthy colours: cream, beige, brown, light yellow. This is a style choice, but also a Hobson's choice, given that at Neemic they try to avoid chemical colouring.

They continuously look for local suppliers of organic fabrics in Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, and unfailingly do research about what's new in the market - right now Hans is actually in HK at InterStoff to meet producers of eco-friendly materials. Very often they are obliged to import from Germany, US, Switzerland as the market in China is way less developed than in India, for example.

But Neemic is more than this. It is extremely beautiful and sophisticated design and style. While recent years have seen more experiments related to environmentally-friendly fashion at the high-end market, Neemic is an attempt at sustainable cutting-edge design for a relatively reasonable price.

Here, it is all about minimal shapes, earthy colours, and comfortable wearability. And yet, extremely feminine and delicate creations. And you can tell how much love they put into what they are doing from the care for details. 'Silky inner layers and organic cotton fleece give a feeling of cocoon-like comfort' it says on Neemic official website. ‘Do it like the butterflies. Go gently with the world. Live in silky clothing and wrap yourself in a soft shell’ is their credo. And I couldn't agree more.

Neemic is also very active in the social scene: as well as partnering with local tailors, it is preparing a trial collaboration with a local NGO supporting fair-trade employment of rural migrants together with other environmentally conscious Beijing designers, and is aiming to pursue a long-term partnership.

It was big pleasure for me to get in contact with Hans, very inspiring dreamer and sophisticated thinker, who is now ready to face the challenges that will arise to make the world a better place. Good job, Hans!

Read more inspiring stories about interesting people on Chiara’s blog. http://www.chiarascoffeetable.com #staytuned

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